Monday, August 20, 2012

FRIDAY CHURCH RIOT


On Friday, August 17, I visited two of the three churches I had intended to hit: Kazan Cathedral and St. Isaac's Cathedral.

Around 3:00 p.m., I began to notice around town young people wearing colorful winter balaclavas over their faces on one of the very few, warm, sunny summer days we have enjoyed since arriving in SPB on August 1.

It was only after returning home late that night and turning on the TV news that I learned that the political performance artists (or feminist punk rock band) who call themselves “Pussy Riot” had been sentenced to two years in prison for having danced crazily with pink, red, and gold balaclavas back in February of this year inside a Moscow orthodox church for a “music” video they produced decrying Vladimir Putin and his re-election.

Thus the title of this blog…

A lot of ground was covered this day, and below are selected photos.

Kazan Cathedral is modeled on St. Peter’s in Rome, but certainly much smaller. It was completed in 1811 to house the miracle-working Our Lady of Kazan icon. And in this, the 200th anniversary of Napoleon’s withered retreat from Russia, it must be acknowledged that this cathedral stood for years as a monument to the defeat of France’s Grande Armee by Field Marshal Prince Mikhail Kutuzov under Tsar Alexander I. During the Soviet period, the cathedral was a shrine to anti-religion and atheism, but since 1990, the icon has returned and the bells ring again.

Small altar upon entering the cathedral.

View from west to east inside Kazan Cathedral.

Looking up at the Kazan Cathedral dome above the grand chandelier.

When the Kazan Cathedral was a pantheon to atheism during the Soviet period, this would have been unheard of: Now Tsar Nicholas II and his crown prince son, Alexei, are considered saints.

Real devotion: people not only pray before religious paintings and icons, they kiss them, activating a small army of nuns  who scurry about washing off lipstick and lip marks from the paintings and icons.

Religious paintings with real gold relief that are found in great abundance in orthodox churches.

Long line for the famed Lady of Kazan icon.

Kissing the Kazan.

Church of the Spilled Blood along the Gribadoeva Canal, which I had hoped to visit but did not on Friday, August 17. Eventually I will get there!

Will along the adorable Griffin Bridge that crosses the Gribadoeva Canal near the Economics & Finance University. There are two griffins on each side of this little foot bridge. It is one of SPB's icons.

Looking down the Gribadoeva Canal from the Griffin Bridge.

Looking down Gorokhovaya Ulitsa toward the Admiralty at the very end.

Crossing the street in front of the Admiralty, looking at the main fountain in Alexandrovsky Park on the way to St. Isaac's Cathedral.
St. Isaac’s Cathedral is a masterpiece of architecture and engineering. It was designed to “wow,” and it does through sheer scale and precious materials. One of the little things I found fascinating is its 17th Century air cooling system: air blowing high above is channeled down to ground level where along the supporting structures are little golden doors that can be opened to usher in the cool air flowing down from above.

While it may not be the tallest structure in SPB, from its colonnade that runs around the drum of the dome, you can see the entire surrounding city without obstruction. It happens quite often when one is traveling and visiting so many historic places, but to stand on this ground that had two churches prior to the one completed here in 1858 and to see photos of this church during the Russian Revolution, the siege of Leningrad and after The Great Patriotic War forces one to pause and consider one’s mortality and insignificance as a speck in the spectrum of space and time.
From the colonnade atop St. Isaac's Cathedral, looking over Alexandrovsky Park at the Peter Paul Fortress on far left, the Admiralty tower peak and the Hermitage.

Work along one of the four lesser domes at St. Isaac's.

Close up of worker high above the ground!

Will atop St. Isaac's Cathedral.looking out to Holy Trinity Cathedral.

Looking down on Nicholas I square from St. Isaac's Cathedral.

Exterior of immense bronze doors on south side of St. Isaac's.

Looking up inside St. Isaac's dome. If you look closely, you can just see the white dove that hangs inside.

The iconostasis inside St. Isaac's Cathedral.

Inside what is officially called the St. Isaac Museum.

Interior bronze doors.

Exterior of St. Isaac's Cathedral from the Nicholas I park on the south side.

Statue of Peter the Great in Alexandrovsky Park. This statue is known as the "Bronze Horseman."

The plaza at the Bronze Horseman, looking out toward the Kunstkammer on the left, one of the two red spits , and on the right, the Peter and Paul Fortress.

Silhouetted Bronze Horseman rides again!

Statue of Nicholas 1. From here, I visited the super luxurious Astoria Hotel, where Hitler had hoped to spend New Year's Eve 1941 (sorry Adolph.) The list of luminaries who actually stayed at the Astoria are engraved on gold plates that run alongside the elevators in the lobby. I then proceed to eat a very good and quite filling Indian dinner at Tandoor on Admiralteiskky Prospekt before walking all the way home.
The past weekend was busy with an excursion to the Hermitage on Saturday and the Ethnography Museum. I will post those photos and comments soon.

Thursday, August 16, 2012

PETERHOF

Tuesday, August 14 may have been the nicest weather we have seen since leaving the United States of America: high in the low 70s, slight breeze, barely a cloud in the sky. So Andrea took off a day from the libraries, and we went to Peterhof, the "Russian Versailles."

I will not waste time with describing the place. For details, click here.

However, the place is more than vast. In fourth grade French class, when our teacher would show us photos of the chateaux, their grounds and fountains, at each photo, I would get the class laughing by saying, "Oh, that's my garage," "that's my side yard," "that's my closet," and "that's my toilet!"

Well, seeing Peterhof in person certainly shut me up! We covered perhaps a fourth of what there is to see in a day. And like the library, no photos are allowed inside (although plenty of people disregarded that rule and used their smartphone cameras.)

Here are some selected photos of a great day.

Dvortsoyava Embankment along the Neva River in front of the Hermitage and near the hydrofoil  launch.

Inside the hydrofoil looking at the Hermitage.

Along the Bolshaya Neva (Big Neva River) cruising past some of the  ocean-going passenger ships.

Along the Bolshaya Neva looking at Western St. Petersburg.

Disembarking from the Vodokhod hydrofoil.

Andrea en route.

Will standing along the shores of the Gulf of Finland on the way toward the Little Hermitage at Peterhof.

Marly - Peter's little family house on the west side of the estate and about two miles from where he originally built his Montplaisir chateau.
Little Hermitage - a party place along the shore.

Andrea loved Marly.

Will by the Menager Fountain. There are gravity-forced fountains throughout the grounds.

The Golden Hill Cascade.

Lion's Cascade.

Close up of the Lion's Cascade.

Eve Fountain. I liked how around the fountain, there are four little pavilions in which to play and party.

The Sea Channel that leads up to the Great Palace.

Monkey Lion. Monkey Boy.

Great Palace.

And here Professor Rusnock tells us about the famous Samson Fountain, renowned as a tribute to Peter's defeat of the Swedes in....ZZZ!

Atop the Great Cascade looking down the Sea Channel that once allowed boats to approach but is now only decorative.

Andrea atop the Great Cascade.

Church Pavilion adjoins the Great Palace on the east side through the gallery.

At 7:30 p.m., the sun shone brilliantly on the gold covered Church Pavilion.

Andrea sniffing the aromatic pink roses in the lovely Upper Gardens.

Great Palace from the Upper Garden.

Leninsky Metro station.

Moskovsky Prospekt from the "Two Chopsticks" sushi restaurant at the Leninsky Metro station.

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

THE RUSSIAN NATIONAL LIBRARY

Monday, August 13, 2012

While today's weather was decent - albeit like late September at home with
a warming sun but the temperature not above 70 - I decided to accompany
Andrea to the library, trailing along like a 4-year-old boy after his
mother.

I was able to obtain a library card, and in so doing, saw first hand the
bureaucracy and idiosyncracy that is, at least in St. Petersburg, the
public library system.

One cannot take much of one's belongings into the actual library. My iPad
and her computer and some note paper and writing instrument were
essentially what was allowed. Andrea assures me the policies have been
greatly liberalized since her last visit here.

The library card itsel is very modern. It has my picture and an ID number
and an expiration date paralleling my visa expiration date. Like a
security door at home, it is used to gain admission past the entrance
foyer and security guard. My image andall the information I input when
registering comes up on a screen for the guard to make sure the correct
person is entering.

The place is dark and foreboding, the wood floors creak, and there is
plenty of empty space designed more to impress those from another era
rather than to be functional in any way.

Andrea lead me through a barely lit hall lined with the history of the
library (some very interesting photos of the place going back to the
1920s, such as people all bundled up in winter clothing because there was
no heat in the place) past the "stolovaya" - a cafeteria in a library?
Yes, in Russia!- and up to a desk where we have our piece of paper stamped
that the security guard handed us when we passed through control.

This  stamped paper indicates we have our computers with us (not a bad
idea, since if our computers were stolen, the thief would need the stamped
paper to get past another security guard and exit the building.)

This paper is needed throughout the library and is used almost like an an
internal library card, getting stamped whenever a new book or publications
is taken. When Andrea left the Lenin Reading Room, where we were situated
and in which Lenin himself studied from 1893-95, she needed the paper to
obtain publications from the other reading rooms.

And that is because unlike the public library we are used to in the
States, publications do not sit on open shelves, readily available to the
curious or to those wanting them. You have to request each one.  And once
you get your book, you had beter be either a fast reader or plan on
returning to the library, because books cannot be checked out. They are
available for use only at the library!

There are some library computers now, but the old card catalogue system
most of us grew up with is still available for use by patrons (and Andrea
loves it!)

Once you find the book you want in the card catalogue, you must go to a
librarian's desk on the approprate floor or room and hand in a completed
slip of paper with all the publication's info. They check it over and you
wait at least one day before it's ready for you to pick it up.

As I have heard Andrea say many times, often the book may not be
available, or you might have to wait several days for it to be fetched, or
you may be sent to another library all together in another part of the
city, such as the new library far south of town where we are and where I
am currently writing today's blog.

Long and short of it; it is an overly complex and old-fashioned system
that, in my opinon, is designed to deter the free flow of information. And
that, also in my opinion, creates barriers to an educated society and
fosters elitism.

At the new library south of town across from the Park Pobedy metro on
Mosckovsky Prospect, which I believe was originally designed back in the
1970s but was not completed untl 2002 when Mr. Vlad Putin was the mayor of
St. Petersburg, the inefficiencies consist, as does the waste of space.

For instance, there are tons of spaces for the display of books under
glass, but just don't try to read them. They are there for looks only and
to plant ideas, such as who are the heroes and who are the villians.

Andrea did point out to me that all the people in the library (who are
overworked and underpaid, as she says) have been very helpful, patient,
and kind to her. And that she actually gets to hold in her hot little
hands books, etc., from the 1800s, something she assures me you could not
do in our lending libraries. I guess it is a good thing she is doing the
research in this labyrinthe of a system instead of me!

Lastly, I often give Andrea a hard time, teasing her mercilessly about
everything from her "hardships of leading an academic life" to how her
hair might look on any given day. It's the perverse way I learned to
express my love.

However, in all serioiusness, after being with her today, my hat is
off to her in great admiration for suffering through the library system,
its often indifferent workers, understanding them as they rattle off in
rapid fire Russian, and in general for not only bringing us here (and
everything that was involved with it), but bearing the very heavy load of
taking responsibility for both us in so doing.

Important note: I must reinforce that these are my initial impressions,
which may not be 100% factually accurate. The library may not track
with Americans' idea of a "public library," because perhaps its intent is
more research oriented rather than to lend books.

For details about the library's history, click here.

Front of new National Public Library at Park Pobedy August 13, 2012.

Medium shot new National Public Library.

Soviet-era apartment block complex across from Park Pobedy and library on Moskovsky Prospekt.

Close up of the apartment tower.

Sunday, August 12, 2012

GEORGIA ON MY PLATE

On my way to pick up Andrea at the National Public Library, I stopped at the Ostrovskogo Park, which is right across from the library. I snapped two photos of the grand Catherine the Great statue that dominates the charming and quiet little bit of heaven right off the loud and hectic Nevsky Prospekt.


Statue of Catherine the Great is the center piece of the Ostrovskogo Park.

On the west end of the park is the Alexandrinsky Theatre. A tour bus driver mistook me for a Dutch tourist after I told him in Russian it was the Alexandrinsky and that I understood no more Russian, but that I was learning it.

Alexandrinsky Theatre from the park, just west of the statue.
The weather was relatively mild: mid 60's, cloudy, but no rain. We went into Gostiny Dvor and purchased a little French press coffee maker for about $40. The Melita funnel we use at home -- while very practical, inexpensive, and a great way to make coffee -- is just not available any place here, although the filters are.

We then went in search of a movie, but there was nothing showing that interested us at either the Aurora or Dom Kino movie houses.

So it was off to Georgia...for food! And no, not the Georgia of Scarlett O'Hara, peanuts and Jimmy Carter!

We enjoyed the best meal we have eaten in 10 days of our stay in Russia at a restaurant called Tarkhun. I have not been eating much, primarily because carbohydrates have become such a staple of my diet and I don't want to have to purchase another seat for the plane ride home. But I admit to eating at Tarkhun like the Willie T. for which I have gained a fairly deserved reputation.

Appetizers or zakuskis were: Pkhaleuli: cold hors d'oeuvres of walnut paste. Now the walnut paste was inside roasted red bell peppers and eggplant, as well as being combined into patties of green beans and spinach. As much as I love spinach, the green bean patty was better, but not by much.

We also had a hot zakuski called Lobio: French red beans in a sauce with gurian red cabbage. mmmm.

And topping off our appetizers was Xachapuri, imertian style (whatever that means.) Xachapuri, for those who may not know, is akin to baked brie in dough, but it is presented like pizza on a board and sliced into sections. Also muy delicioso.  Xachapuri and a salad would be a complete meal in itself.

Zakuski on my plate: 12 o'clock is the Lobio and cabbage; and then is the spinach and green bean walnut paste patties, followed by the Xachapuri at the 6 o'clock position. Sorry. I should have photographed the dishes upon arrival, but I also had Standart vodka on my mind.

I washed this down with the local vodka, labeled Standart.

But we were not done! For our entree, we had an outstanding fricaseed chicken in creamy garlic sauce and potatoes grilled on coal. I drank a Weltenberger Kloster beer with my meal. Truly outstanding, and even at $90 inclusive of service charge, a real value in St. Petersburg when compared to the other meals we have had.

Chicken in creamy garlic sauce prepared and served in a ceramic dish with potatoes grilled on charcoal and served with onions and a tomato-based sauce with dill.